Moda Unissex


Moda Unissex

Moda Unissex

Para todos: moda unissex é democrática e favorece igualdade de gêneros

Há algum tempo, a androginia, mistura de características masculinas e femininas em uma mesma pessoa, tem se firmado como comportamento de moda. Marcas como Prada, Maison Margiela, Saint Laurent e Giorgio Armani mostraram looks que poderiam ser usados tanto por homens quanto por mulheres.
Não é de agora
A moda unissex pode ter voltado aos holofotes recentemente, mas ela não é novidade. Ainda nos anos 20, a estilista Coco Chanel, por exemplo, popularizou o uso da calça comprida pelas mulheres. O estilista Yves Saint Laurent, em 1966, apresentou o “Le Smoking”, que também inseriu o traje masculino no guarda-roupa feminino. “Desde o início do século podemos ver manifestações criativas importantes que tendiam para isso. O que acredito estarmos presenciando neste momento é o encontro do lado comercial e do espetáculo. Há um movimento forte, porém natural, que vem acontecendo lentamente há algumas temporadas”, acredita Isabel Clara

Os anos 90, de acordo com o estilista Wagner Kallieno, também foram ricos no que diz respeito à moda sem gêneros, com a febre dos moletons e das camisetas com logos, de modelagens mais amplas. Peças desse tipo, que serviam tanto para homens quanto mulheres, voltaram a ter destaque nas últimas coleções de algumas grifes nas semanas de moda, fortalecendo o retorno do desejo pelo unissex.

Igualdade
A afirmação crescente da mulher no mercado de trabalho e a urgência pelo reconhecimento da igualdade entre os gêneros em nível global se manifestam cada vez mais na forma das mulheres se vestirem. Para o estilista João Pimenta isso tem explicação: “esse desejo é consequência da luta das mulheres por uma igualdade de direitos”.

Outro motivo para a popularização do vestuário unissex, de acordo com Isabel Clara, é a necessidade dos indivíduos de expressarem suas personalidades por meio da indumentária, sem que existam restrições para isso. “A moda é a expressão mais contundente e democrática do comportamento humano, que usa a roupa para demonstrar um estado de espírito, um modo de ser e de viver de uma sociedade”, indica Clara.

Mercado

No Brasil, uma das representantes dessa moda é Raquel Davidowicz. Estilista da grife brasileira UMA, ela também leva inspiração andrógina no seu trabalho. “Desde o início da marca uso como referências pessoas andróginas ou que tenham um comportamento diferenciado. Para uma coleção unissex, o desenho das peças poderia ser o mesmo, mas, em algumas roupas, a modelagem teria que ser diferente para vestir bem tanto homens quanto mulheres”, acredita.

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